Still Painting

Wow, it has been a while since I posted here. That's what holidays, weddings, and neverending high workloads does. Never fear, however, for there will be an update very, very soon.

-- silly painter.

Works in Progress

Today is mostly some photos of work in progress.

Lemartes is definitely starting to look much more impressive. Final armour highlights with Dawnstone have been done, the Crozius Arcanum is just about finished, and various other components have been painted. Make no mistake: there's still a ways to go with him yet, and the jump pack hasn't been properly started yet either.

 The grip of the Crozius was one of those "let's see how this turns out" moments that started on the Terminator thunder hammers, and is basically:

• Base with XV-88 (Rhinox Hide works well too, but I find it difficult to pick out detail without really good lighting).
• Wash with Agrax Earthshade, just to tone down the base coat and bring out the detail a little more.
• Layer highlight with Tuskgor Fur. This last step just gives a nice leather bound feel to the grip.

The pommel, and above the hilt, are:

• Khorne Red (base).
• Drakenhof Nightshade (wash)
• Mephiston Red (base, thinned down highlight).

The blue shading just makes it look distinct from armour pieces. I'm still considering giving it a glaze to bring out the red a bit more, but I'm otherwise happy enough the Crozius as it is.

I was starting to use many layers of paint, building up slowly to give a desired effect, however this is both time consuming, and sometimes unnecessary. I'm very much now trying to reduce the number of layers applied to about three (a base, a wash, and a layer typically), although a notable exception is still the basic Blood Angel armour (spray, thin base, wash, layer blend, thin base to fix up, final highlight - six steps in total!). The armour, however, is quite reproducible and is such an important part of the model that it must be done right. For other parts, such as purity seals, there really is not need to go to such extremes.

The Terminators, shown below, still have yet to be properly based, but are otherwise finished. There's not too much to go over with them that hasn't already been posted, however one technique worth mentioning is the "metal" appearance of the thunder hammer heads. The basic grey colour was just a bit of fun, but turned out so well that I'll be using it much more later:
Celestra Grey (base).
Nuln Oil (wash, applied heavily in one or two coats).
That was it. The wash gives some natural shading, and tones down the colour, with everything remaining grey enough to have a slight metallic appearance. It's also distinct enough from proper metallic paints that it helps stand out from areas that use it, and gives the thunder hammer a little more colour variation.
Continuing with simple paint schemes, the shaft of the hammer is:

• Dark Reaper (layer).
• Nuln Oil (wash).

Note that not all of the shaft was given a Dark Reaper coat. Some was left as it was after the original Mephiston Red spray, and simply washed over with Nuln Oil.
The cabling attached to the hammer is:

• Incubi Darkness (base).
• Thunderhawk Blue (layer, highlight).

I've started on the rest of the tactical squad as well, along with some additional work with the original five models to give them company and squad markings.

-- silly painter

Tools of the Trade

Today's post talks about some different things other than the painting itself: the tools used in modelling. I've been working recently with some new brushes (thankyou goes out to Matt for them - you're awesome!), new putty, new drill heads, and the sculpting tools.

To start with, however, Games Workshop recently released a refresh to their hobby tool line. Here I want to make my opinion absolutely clear: the modelling tools from Games Workshop are useable, but they're not up to top notch professional standards. They're useful for the mass market, and they get the job done, but they really can't compare to quality items from other brands (e.g Army Painter). That being said, the mould line remover is good, and I like the drill as well (more on that in a moment).

If you're looking for updates on the terminators, then they're mostly finished, apart from some basing work. More on that soon.

Paint Brushes

Having used a set of different brushes from Army Painter, I heartily recommend getting them. They don't seem to gather paint on the brush itself (it really washes off easily, meaning the brushes will last that bit longer), but also have a nice stiffness (not too stiff, not too soft), and keep a very nice point (no little hooks or bends have developed). The end does tend to split a little if the brush dries out too much, so they should be kept quite damp when using. Granted, they are a little more on the expensive side, but are well worth the price, and should last a long time.

The Drill

The old drill set only came with the one drill bit size. I found this unsatisfying, and have since purchased additional drill bit heads. Fortunately, modelling drills are fairly standardised here and it was easy to find more. Otherwise, the drill is comfortable enough, and I've not had problems with it. It's well worth having a drill, and not only for making holes in boltgun barrels. Drilling holes can be used for less aesthetic, more practical purposes, such as pinning, which is where other sizes come in handy. I may end up experimenting with different sizes on the boltguns as well, but for the sake of consistency they will possibly end up using the same. Of course, there are other weapons with barrels...

Purity Seal

I picked up some purity seal to try out. Firstly: it really kills any metallic shine. For that reason alone it's not going into my general use pile anytime soon. I have tried it on a single Death Company marine, but I also got the impression that the armour was somehow lighter than before (this may be a "frosting" issue). I didn't take a before photo like I should have, so it could have been that way before. I'll have to try it on a Dark Angel and see what happens.
I may try an Army Painter alternative, depending on the cost, or simply be extra careful in handling the models.

Vice

A vice or clamp are quite useful. Get one if you can. I primarily use them for holding moulds together until the putty has properly cured, but for that reason alone I recommend getting something. I suspect it would be useful when pinning as well, but I haven't had a reason to do any of that - yet. I've no reason to dislike the one I have yet, but I've not needed it for anything fancy yet either.

Files

The modelling files are again good enough to get started with, but again I do feel that other manufacturers will provide better equipment. There will likely be some wear & tear on the GW tools that make their lifespan somewhat less as well, but that really remains to be seen.

Summary

To sum up, the models and paints from Games Workshop are really some of the best for the hobby, but their tool sets in working with that aren't. I guess the modelling tools are just an addition for them, something to get people started with the core business, leaving professional level tools for others to provide. I don't really see this as a bad thing: the versions I picked up did their job of getting me started, and it was convenient to pick it up from the local store. The tools have all served their purpose, and I've learned quite a bit - at least enough to appreciate better tools now.
So if you're new to the hobby, the Games Workshop stuff will do just fine - but use it all with a mind to learn, and for the tools to be destroyed by the time you're done. If you're a bit more experienced, or even just want to compare prices, then look at hobby shops for some proper equipment.

Also, mould line removers are awesome.

-- silly painter

Better Blending

The image above doesn't show too much of today's post, but it does make the page look a bit nicer. It also shows some improved NMM gold I've been attempting.

Today is another focus on blending, specifically as it applies to highlighting. The same principle as I've written about before applies (building up the paint to transition gradually), but I thought I'd give some thoughts on improvements I've learned.

To start with, Lahmian Medium is great stuff. It also goes by other names from other suppliers (Acrylic Flow Improver, for example), but by whatever name, it's still very useful. As the example I gave suggests, it's best description is perhaps to improve the flow of the paint, and naturally also thins it down. Both of these properties can be used to essentially make any of the Citadel base and layer paints into a glaze, which has different fluid properties to water and makes it much easier to control. Another bonus I've found is that when mixing it on an appropriate tray, it also takes longer to dry out (useful tip: deeper depressions in the tray surface can form a puddle, which is where it stays more fluid longer). So if you're going to take the blending approach I use, then get some Lahmian Medium!

When dealing with Lahmian Medium, or whatever it is, do not simply use it straight from the bottle. Get an old eye-dropper bottle, or something similar (some modelling shops will sell them) and keep the Lahmian Medium in that. One or two drops at a time are all that's required, and this allows you to keep the amount used consistent, controlled, and prevents contaminating it with any leftover paint from the brush.

Water can still be used, but it's more tricky to work with, and I find that it has a habit of running off into places you don't want far too easily. It also dries much faster, which can be difficult.

When using any layer paint as a glaze, simply paint a very thin amount (glaze consistency) from the darker area to the edge you want highlighted. Wait for it to dry (painting other areas during this time is a good idea), then repeat, moving the start point closer to the edge as you go. Moving the brush this way really helps draw most of the pigment to the last place the brush touches (the edge). It's very important, however, to wait for each pass to dry first if you want to get a smooth colour transition.
I also find that after a little while, the paint on the tray starts to thicken slightly as it dries. This can actually be used to transition from using it as a glaze to more of an actual layer paint, and really build the edge up to the colour you want. That really comes down to practice and getting a feel for the thinned down paint.
Do not overload the brush. Use only a small amount on the tip of the brush at a time. This makes it much easier to control where the paint goes, which in turn makes building up the layers that much faster. I can't stress that enough: do not overload the brush! If there's too much, wash and dry the brush, and then just get a small amount on the tip from the mixing tray.
Most of the above applies when using water too, but Lahmian Medium really does make it much easier to use.
Note that I did apply this to building up an Eshin Grey highlight on Lemartes' armour, but it doesn't really show up in the photo. I also used Nuln Oil to pull back the colours where appropriate, so that final step of applying a wash (or even glaze) of the base colour is often still required.

A final note for this post is non-metallic-metal gold. This video serves as a good reference:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3H7i9neDtU

I used that to help try out both better blending and NMM gold on Lemartes' Crozius Arcanum. I also used a Druchii Violet wash at the end to contrast the yellow, which really makes a difference. As a test it worked quite well, but took a very long time, so I'll stick to special models with that particular technique.

-- silly painter

Storm Shield

Today's post is about layering. Specifically, layering on a storm shield for the assault terminators. Right off the bat I'll say that some effects could be done with much fewer layers (something I intend to explore soon), but it does give a good idea of how you can use the paints to build up a final effect.
Decding which colours to use when building up the paint layers can be difficult, especially when you're not sure quite how it will turn out. This comes from experimentation and experience - and perhaps a little reasearch and ideas from what other people have done. Hence this post. So let's begin.

To start with, these are close up shots. Poor lighting still, but found a much better camera to work with, so hopefully better photos soon. Anyway, the usual black spray undercoat was applied first. The photo was actually taken a bit late, so the grey cross is a combination of Mechanicus Standard Grey (base) followed by a thin layer of Dawnstone (layer). This is the same as the Crux Terminatus from the previous post - I wanted the shield and shoulder pads to carry a similar colour theme. The eagle and skull are given a coat of Rhinox Hide (base), while the scroll is done with Rakarth Flesh (base).

Here the stonework (I'm going for a stone look) was given a wash of Nuln Oil (wash). Being a little patchy doesn't matter - it gives it some texture to look more like carved stone. The eagle is highlighted with Zamesi Desert (layer). I used a good brush and a bit of patience, but this step (and similar ones later) is probably a good candidate for drybrushing (might even be better - again, something to explore later). Karak Stone (layer) was applied to the skull, with Agrax Earthshade (wash) brushed over the scroll.

Things are starting to look better. Russ Grey (layer) was applied to the stonework, but not evenly. I tried to highlight the edges, and then blend it back towards the centre. If mistakes are made, Eshin Grey is actually a good colour to use to fix them because it's very similar to Dawnstone washed with Nuln Oil, to the point where one could simply just have used Eshin Grey to begin with. Still, the wash was good for a patchy look, and it gets into folds easier. Yriel Yellow (layer) was highlighted onto the eagle, with Ushabti Bone (layer) for the scroll, and Screaming Skull (layer) for the skull.

Fenrisian Grey (layer) gives final edge highlights to the stonework, which makes that part of the shield complete. Agrax Earthshade (wash) was applied over the skull, and Seraphim Sepia (wash) over the eagle. Final highlights with Screaming Skull (layer) for the scroll finish that part as well.

Flash Gitz Yellow (layer) for eagle highlights, and Scar White (layer) for the skull. At this point, the skull was actually too white, even if it looks ok in the photo. So the tip for future such adventures: don't use Scar White for anything but final edge highlights.
The eagle here could also be considered finished, however I find it too bright, too yellow to really give a golden impression. Looking back over the Death Company, I realised that while a brown hue is good, the missing colour was orange...

...so the final touches are Fuegan Orange (wash) on the eagle, and Agrax Earthshade (wash) to tone down the excessive white of the skull. Although the ambience is a bit dark for the photo, it hopefully shows that the eagle now looks closer to Dante's armour, but without the metallic paints.

The storm shield isn't completely finished. I'll likely give some very fine edge highlights of blue around the outermost edges to hint at a power field of some kind, and there's still the other side to do, along with something to write on the scroll. As an example of building up paint layers it's fairly good however. I might experiment with achieving similar colours on the eagle, but using less layers - I'm thinking Averland Sunset (base), some highlight of orange, Agrax Earthshade (wash) to give the brown colouring, then a final layer of Yriel Yellow. I'll see how that turns out in a future post.

-- silly painter.

Terminators 03

Today's post details some of the additional work on the shoulder pad (from Forge World), laurel wreath, and thoughts behind some of the colours chosen. First of all, let's start with colours.

The sergeant is likely going to be the focal point for all painting, with the rest of squad finished only after he is. This allows me to concentrate on the one model, and then use it as a reference for the rest. He's not too far from being done now actually, although I guess that depends how overboard I go (so...he's far from being done). At any rate, the picture above I should mention was slightly modified, purely to try and sharpen it a little. The image was a little too blurry otherwise. Anyway, I'm still attempting to go with as few metallics as possible (the claws will be metallic soon), and so tried to give a golden feel to some of the icons. I didn't really succeed there, at least not to a level I'm happy with, so I'll have to keeping trying. There needs to be either more brown, or more white, or both. Regardless, the chest plate for Blood Angels tends to have a black aquilla (or similar design) these days, but I wanted something to make the sergeant stand out a little more, so his is golden. I'll probably do something similar for the tactical squad as well: sergeants will have a more golden symbol across the chest, with squad leaders having black.

At this point, the terminator has too many harmonious colours. I wanted to add something a little contrasting just to break it up a bit: enter the laurels on each glove. They're perfect for some small detail in a contrasting colour to attract the eye to them, giving the whole suit of armour a more ornate feel. The wreath is not painted quite the same as with Dante, however I like this way better.

• Caliban Green (base)
• Moot Green (highlight edges of each leaf)
• Drakenhof Nightshade (wash - and yes, a blue wash!)
• Sybarite Green (highlight tips of each leaf).

As usual, the photo doesn't do things justice, but Sybarite Green does give a good leafy green, and really makes the laurels "pop". Just need to have a very fine brush tip to be working with, and a little patience.

The Crux Terminatus I decided to give a stone look. I debated making the skull white, or giving it a bone feel, but decided that it would look more impressive to wear carved stone into battle rather than something that could be mistaken for plaster (fear me, for I am your exterior decorator). Being a Forge World shoulder pad, the resin is highly detailed, and presents quite the challenge to paint. I dare not use more than a spray undercoat on them lest the detail be obscured. Even so, the layers of paint had to mimic in places the original design, but it turned out ok. Just be sure to use very thin layers when working with such items!

• Mechanicus Grey (base)
• Dawnstone (highlight, very thin)
• Nuln Oil (wash)
• Russ Grey (highlight)
• Fenrisian Grey (highlight, skull only)

The skull was the tricky part. The creases on the forehead are extremely difficult to not obscure, and in the the end they were the part mostly mimicked via highlighting. I used two layers of Nuln Oil there in the end; one wash to catch the creases, the second to bring them back from overly ambitious highlighting. Even then, the last highlight was touched up in places because of the second wash. Drybrushing might work, but the creases are very shallow, so just patience and a steady hand are probably better.
The skull I also wanted to stand out more; the skull should be the focal point. To this end, Fenrisian Grey was used to brighten it up somewhat, subtly setting it apart from the background, but still maintaining the same overall colour scheme. I'm fairly happy with how it turned out, but I have to repeat it yet across four more. That won't be so easy.

Next time I might actually have the second shoulder pad attached. At the very least, it's about time for some metal colours now.

-- silly painter.

Terminators 02

A shorter post today to summarise a few things. Not much in the way of pictures (really need to get a proper camera one day...), but there isn't much of a need I suppose.

First off, terminator helmets continued. I went with blue lenses just to set them apart from the green lenses of tactical marines, and to hint that the internals of terminator armour is a little different. As I noted before, the lenses on terminator helmets are actually raised instead of sunk in slightly, but they're also a little smaller, so a very fine brush is essential here.
In the end, the lenses were done with:

• Genestealer Purple (base). This just makes them a little lighter when building up the layers. It's not essential, and was more me playing around, but regardless the base colour should not be black.
• Alaitoc Blue (thin layer). Mostly as a darkening step, but only a thin layer to give colour. 
• Lothern Blue (layer highlight). This was applied along the bottom of the lens, trying to be careful to leave a slightly darker line along the top. I didn't really succeed too well with that, but if done right it looks good. Highlighting too high I find can give the terminator a impression of being amused.
• White Scar (highlight dot). Just a very small dot was applied to the back of each lens. It can be seen in the above photo, and really gives that reflective material appearance.

Note that I haven't applied a wash, but darker blue would be my choice if I felt it was needed. I judged that the existing shading was sufficient, however, so was just very careful with the highlighting.

The muzzle was a bit simpler. I didn't want to use a metallic paint, mostly because I felt that it was too easy to just use that and I wanted to do something different, but also because the metallic paints might be too shiny and draw attention away from the lenses. I do appear to be painting things rather darker than bright, but then these are engineered warriors going into battle, not a carnival parade. So, the muzzle:

• Mechanicus Standard Grey (base). This is the same as applied to the joints on Dante.
• Nuln Oil (wash). Same as with the joints.
• Eshin Grey (layer). Only needed if the wash is a little heavy, or you feel that it's just a little too dark. 
• Russ Grey (layer highlight). Edges and raised areas.

I'm overall happy with the result, even if it doesn't truly look metallic. I actually tried Fenrisian Grey as the final highlight at first, but it was simply too bright and the muzzle stood out more than the lenses, so had to pull it back with Eshin on my first attempt. It also could be used as a colour scheme for rock, but as a replacement for metallic paints I think it's a good start.

A final note is the power cabling with assault terminators. There are cables running to thunder hammers, storm shields, and lightning claws, and again I didn't want a metallic paint. I wanted something that looked like it might have some kind of electrical shielding, reasoning that beneath the outer insulation would be armour or additional protective shields that might also serve as grounding wires.

• Black. With this, there's really no need for a wash later.
• Dark Reaper (layer). Applied to raised areas, but leaving black in the grooves.
• Thunderhawk Blue (layer highlight). Not applied to the entire cable circumference, but more used to give a slight, if muted, shine.

And that's it.

Final note: the helmet of Lemartes (yes, still painting him in very small sections at a time) has a similar scheme the terminator helmet muzzle. The back reinforcements of Lemartes' helmet were given a more metallic look by using Mechanicus, Nuln Oil, Dawnstone (very thin), then Fenrisian Grey as a final edge highlight. The photo turned out poorly, so it's not attached, but it worked very well. The lighter colours were more suitable due to the white of the skull mask, and do give a more metal appearance.

-- silly painter.