Custodian Wardens - Part III

 

Seen some shit.

This is a shorter post about more than just the Custodian Wardens, but concerns faces in general. There's only one model in the set that I've assembled without a helmet, and that was purely because I thought it suited the silhouette better.

To start with, the sculpt lends itself to older white haired look. It really does for some reason - it just has that grizzled veteran vibe. Obviously the Custodian Guard do age, so I would assume this guy has been at it for a very long time and has witnessed a lot. He's also very well groomed.

Painting the face actually used comparatively few paints. I started off with Night Lords Blue but didn't exactly go for complete coverage. A little patchy in areas is ok as it will give a more natural look in the end. Barak-Nar Burgundy was next, leaving the previous colour in the recessed areas and just kind of sketching out the shapes. These colours were chosen for no other reason than they were on the palette at the time, but that's again something that gives a more natural look: not every person has exactly the same skin tone, and it's the variation in models that make them look realistic.

Barbarian Brawn and Dwarven Flesh, both TTC paints, were then used to build up the skin tones by mixing in previous colours and highlighting up as I went along. The deeper recesses and lower parts of the face predominantly used Night Lords Blue mixed in to give colder shadows, while Barak-Nar Burgundy faded out from there and was also more apparent to the sides of the head. Final highlights are pure Dwarven Flesh, glazed into place: nose, upper cheeks, and the forehead. I made a conscious choice to keep the front of the face brighter and this really sells the look. It helps define the shape of the head and keep attention where it should be.

The beard and hair is Trooper White, another TTC paint, which is also the "whites" of the eyes. The iris is just Night Lords Blue, and I did not even try to put in a black pupil. I did mix in some of the blue and burgundy into the white for initial hair colouring, moving more to the blue later. I used very little pure Trooper White for the hair; (barely) a hint of another colour is sufficient to make it look more natural.

I stopped about there. I could make the skin tone brighter, but that might clash with the hair and the skin was looking sufficiently leathery by this stage. I just added eyebrows then blue tinted cabling around the head and glued it in place.

Guardian Spear with built-in boltgun, but still wants to use a knife.

This model is not really fully assembled quite yet. The pauldrons and cape are just resting in place right now so that I can easily access some of the still visible parts of the model, but I do get a good feel of how everything will look in the end - and I'm happy with how that's going. I still need to highlight the armour on this model (and most of the others). Next models I'm definitely not going to go quite this hardcore on.

-- silly painter.

Custodian Wardens - Part II

 

Wonder if he washes his own cloak.

While the armour still hasn't received final highlights, I have managed to figure out the other major piece of the model: the cape / cloak / whatever. It took me a while to come up with an idea for that, and actually I had something in mind when I saw something similar from Trovarion.

The idea is that while it can go vibrant, it shouldn't look reflective. The shadows are are cooler and tend towards blue or purple, where the highlights are the warmer tones of a red. This gives contrast and readability while still looking softer, possibly like velvet. I did not want to use simply darker red or black for shadows and nor did I think a wash was appropriate. In the end it was just three paints:

• Barak-Nar Burgundy base coat.
• Night Lords Blue / Barak-Nar Burgundy (1:1) in the shadowed areas, basically anything facing down. The ratios aren't exact: more blue in the deeper recesses, more burgundy glazed into lighter areas.
• Mephiston Red build up for the highlights. Mixing this with a hint of Barak-Nar Burgundy helps transition in places to the purer red which is mostly reserved for upwards facing surfaces higher up.

I'm not sure if a brighter red is suitable or not and so haven't added anything more quite yet. I can always do that later once the helmet is in place and the armour highlighted more.

Rather obviously the model is glued to a base now. I haven't pinned the model in place but something tells me I should have. I'll think about it if they ever come off. Ideally I should have aligned the legs and drilled holes before putting the topper in place but it was too late to do that by the time I'd thought of it. Maybe next time.

The leather braces I straight up stole from a Duncan Rhodes video:

• Doombull Brown
• Nuln Oil
• Doombull Brown glazed into some volume highlights again.
• Rust Orange TTC (or Squig Orange from Citadel, but mine had all dried up) to edge highlight.

Very simple and yet effective. The weapon grips were similar:

• Doombull Brown
• Carroburg Crimson
• Rust Orange to highlight
• Doombull Brown glazed over the highlights to knock them back slightly.

I still have the rest of the squad to complete all of these steps for and so I suspect the next update might take another week or two. Everything is just slow going right now. At least the hard part is over and I think I can just paint without thinking of how to do each little detail.

-- silly painter.

Sons of Horus MkVI Assault Squad - Part VI (Showcase)

 

Assemble!

Surprisingly shorter time to finish these models, but they now done. Matt varnished, highlighted, based.

The first piece of trivia is the edge highlights are actually the same colour as the final volume highlights through the airbrush, and so they're not very visible. I had considered mixing Gauss Blaster Green for something stronger, but the slightly satin finish of Citadel (or Warhammer) paints is enough and I didn't want the colour shift with a stronger edge highlight. Basically I think these models look just fine without much in the way of edge highlights at all.

The black turned out alright in the end. I did tone back the jump packs a good deal and the matt varnish softened things further. I think I like Basilicanum Grey over Dawnstone and might explore that with the airbrush at some future point. The weapons weren't to my liking with the same visuals, so I might just stick with something a little more subtle than Dawnstone in future, at least for the airbrushing.

Overall, despite the minimal effort and intentional limiting of colour choices, I think these turned out ok. That's partially the colour scheme itself: blue, green, turquoise, are just seemingly much easier to work with compared to reds. The sculpts lend themselves very well to airbrushing too, with the large and softly curved surfaces and relatively sparse detail.

Once I had the colours and paints picked out, everything went fairly quick. Painting in sections with a single colour throughout the day helped a lot, particularly with the metallics. It still goes quickly to get the basic armour, then very slowly filling in details, then suddenly very quick again to finalise and finish each model. It might only be tabletop standard, but I'd be proud to have a whole army painted to this level.

Onwards to the next batch of models.

-- silly painter.

Sons of Horus MkVI Assault Squad - Part V

 

Changing the clip must be difficult.

Not a whole lot going on still with regards to painting (work + other responsibilities) but these models are getting really close to being done. Bases, varnish, final highlights mostly, although there might be more decals in selected places because why not.

The major change since last time is the metallics. Here are are few more spots of TMM Ancient Gold that I think work well with Sons of Horus more specialised troops and I think I'll continue with that going forward. The silver/steel/whatever details though are so far just:

• Iron Warriors
• Black Templar
• Iron Warriors to pick out volumes again.

I wanted specifically to go back to a wash or contrast paint because of the speed here. It's not quite as smooth as layering up various glazes, but it's fast.

Cabling in places is Screamer Pink and orange (actually Rust Orange from TTC to replace my dried out Squig Orange) mixed in for a bit of "let's see what this does". I also used the orange on the ammo counter for the pistols, but I need to darken that down again with a red wash probably.

The other point of interest is actually using Basilicanum Grey to glaze over the excessive highlights on the jump packs. I think the edge highlights are still excessive, but it toned everything down and gave a very subtle colour shift to make the "black" more visually appealing.

Short post today.

-- silly painter

Sons of Horus MkVI Assault Squad - Part IV

 

Overhead lights must be bright.

There are very likely going to be a few "not a whole lot done" posts in the near future because I can't get a whole lot done during the week right now. Far from being dismayed, it's simply a challenge to overcome and figure out how to keep the models moving forwards in the most efficient use of time as I can manage.

This is actually part of a broader discussion on painting motivation. I see many videos on how to paint fast, how to keep up motivation, and all of that - but the they all miss a very crucial point: humans aren't machines. Motivations change and what works one day might not work the next. Some days I feel like using a specific synthetic brush, other days a good kolinsky sable brush - and I'm using exactly the same paint for exactly the same task. Some days I want to paint metallics, others I just want to glaze and highlight volumes. Some days I just don't want to paint. Find what works for you on any given day.

The last couple of days I've been painting one part of each model at a time. Not all the metallics, but for example all the gun barrels of each in turn, then I might paint all the intake brackets on the jump packs, and so on. It's been keeping the sense of monotony at bay, and with the same paint I've been able to do one piece at a time whenever I get a few spare moments.

The metallics are going to be Iron Warriors covered with Black Templar as a base coat. This might not be as fancy as some of the dedicated layering I do, but it's fast and will give decent contrast around the details. I'll go back with Iron Warriors to neaten up later, and then it will probably be Iron Hands Steel for highlights after the varnishing stage (which shouldn't be too far off now).

Aged Metal (TTM) for the studs and some chainsword detailing gives some variety to the model - the shade for outlining, and later (post-varnish) I'll use the light version to highlight.

The black armour is an interesting story. I basically thinned down Dawnstone and shot it through an airbrush after masking the models appropriately. The masking worked, which was the main reason for this, but the use of Dawnstone was not the best. I should have at least mixed it with Corvus Black, or perhaps a dark blue. Dawnstone is too desaturated and gives too much of a broad, rounded volumetric highlight. I'll probably thin down Basilicanum Grey and glaze over it to knock back the stone look, though it might be better if I mixed in the barest hint of a blue for colour saturation.

The models are coming together nicely and I think I have all of the colour choices decided upon, so now it will just be a matter of following through with known steps to get them done. I'll be busy for a while however and no guarantees that such steps will happen quickly.

-- silly painter.

Eye of Horus

 

Eye is watching you

I've been having some work and health troubles and so no real painting of late, but I did manage to get out the oils again and paint up the Eye of Horus, symbol for the Sons of Horus.

Oil painting has some applications to miniature painting, at least in the style I'm adopting. I don't really paint oils in one go, but instead plan them and paint in stages. Taking this example the first steps were to paint in the background (a green or turquoise for Sons of Horus) and then the central eye insignia. Black would be overlaid on top later and it's generally better to paint from background to foreground. Even the eye itself was first a mix of red and orange, then when that was fully dry (cured) I went back and added blended in the highlights up to yellow in the middle.

The black was actually a mixture of black, burnt sienna, white, even cadmium red. I wanted some depth to the surrounding shape, which black alone wouldn't give, and what you see is purely playing around for 15 minutes in the one spare moment I had. I'm not happy with the result, I know I can do better, but I'm not entirely unhappy either. It's not just greys, it's not plain black, and I figured how to mix on the fly better.

Working with acrylics I get used to layering a lot. Here it's different to a degree because the layers take a very long time to dry. It's better to mix the base colours and apply them with a rough outline and then later go back in and blend things together.

When working with acrylics I tend to mix colours on the palette first and then glaze and layer them up on the model. Here I was mixing white into the "black" on the palette but then when applied it would mix with the wet paint and be barely noticeable. Of course. So I mixed it directly on the painting itself. Oils are brilliant with blending, but therein lies the trick: figuring out when, where, and what to blend. It's also great to lean into that to work with the colours and move them around while there's time.

The long curing time of oil paints is something I am very much appreciating. Yes it means I generally can't sit and paint from start to finish in one go (possible with oils for someone more experienced than I), but also it's possible to simply have multiple paintings on the go, switching between them each day.

Oils for miniature painting isn't really my thing, but oils on canvas most certainly is. It helps me to think of the colours in a new way which is applicable to any sort of artistic endeavour.

-- silly painter.

Sons of Horus MkVI Assault Squad - Part III

 

Crazy Eyes

This probably isn't really worthy of a post, but I've not had much time lately to write things down and so I'm going to try get through it quickly.

I filled in the eye lenses of the squad, deciding that the reflection point was nice but perhaps overkill if I was trying to be less exacting when painting these models. I also thought that something else could give a crazier look, showcasing the descent of the Sons of Horus into madness.

To that end I started with Jokaero Orange, using some off-white on the palette to brighten it because I couldn't be bothered reaching for a yellow, and then....stopped. Something wasn't right. I carried on with Blood Angels Red (happened to be on the palette) to make a darker orange towards the back of the lenses, and to give an outline in the recesses. Not a whole lot of colours, and it certainly would look nicer with the lens on a prior Luna Wolf, but that's when it occurred to me what was wrong: the lenses are far too bright compared to the rest of the model. It's the same base orange, but a Luna Wolf is much lighter (very much a light grey / light ash tone) so while the colour stands out, the value jump doesn't. This was too much and I ended up dialling it back with another glaze of red.

I think in future I'll just stick with what I did on the Luna Wolf. It takes eyes that aren't tired, but it's worth the end result.

Next up is more leather. Thondia Brown, Skrag Brown, Deathclaw Brown. This gives a nice, warm brown tone to work with, but leather gets quite dark when rubbed in a lot, so I then mixed Agrax Earthshade with Drakenhof Nightshade (about 1:1) and shaded the whole holster. I'm going to try reduce reliance on just reaching for a black and instead go with "very close to black" (dark blue, purple, green) instead, which should hold up better with saturation. I also played with an off-white and then glazing a mix of Corvus Black and Thondia Brown over the top to give that shiny impression worn leather can sometimes give off. This worked out very well on small details and I'll need to try my hand with it on something larger soon.

I have more to say on the subject of leather, hopefully soon.

-- silly painter