Legions Imperialis - Sicaran Battle Tanks (Part III)

 

brrrmm brrrmm

I can't seem to find time to get these tanks finished, but there has been some progress.

I'm also incredibly tired right now, so this will almost certainly be brief and to the point.

The metal is mostly Iron Warriors, then Iron Hands over that on the tracks. The tracks had Ratling Grime over the top for a bit of weathering, which is just enough to make the tracks look used without making them look caked in mud while the rest looks suspiciously clean. The weapons are just a base coat right now and need a shade and probably Iron Hands later as well.

Balthasar Gold rounds out the rest of the metallics so far - again, needs a shade and then a highlight with something else. The Omega Destroyer (or whatever it's called) variant has Balthasar Gold on the firing ports, and then Iron Warriors sort of glazed over the top. I intended to go back over that with a thinned black for scorching later on.

Lenses, viewports, and power cables are all base coated with Khorne Red. I'll differentiate viewports from cables with some other colour later on, but the small dots of red accents nicely against the turquoise which otherwise dominates the models.

I was also stalled for quite some time not knowing what colours to use on various components. In the end I'm "cheating" by using the reference photos / box art from GW on the larger version to inform the colours on the smaller scale. Except for the plasma glow - that's purely so the variant is instantly recognisable on the tabletop.

Still a lot of detail left to go, and now that I'm on a roll with them I have to push the pause button and go away for a couple of weeks. Not that I'll have much time when I'm back, but at least the main colours are blocked in - just detailing it (including edge highlights on black areas) and they'll be good enough to call done.

-- silly painter

Blood Angels Legion Terminator Praetor - Part III

 

Back to base-ics again.

With some brief moments between busy stretches, I finally painted up the base for the Praetor. The lighting is pretty bad on the photo, but it's the impression it gives that counts rather than perfect colour balance.

I originally had the idea of painting up another marble base, similar to the steps on which Horus stands, but replicating that needs a lore more attention, time, and most likely the airbrush to get the same colours. Instead I simply played fast and loose and then ended up liking the stone appearance so much that I skipped on the marble effect altogether. There's enough detail on the base that trying to add marbling could easily ruin the look, and besides which most of it will be hidden by the model on top anyway.

The first layer (or four) was Zandri Dust. My pot of that paint is less than stellar and I'll likely need to replace it soon (along with many of the other colours used here), but it's just workable enough that I can thin it with water and apply several coats to give proper coverage.

Next paint was actually Rakarth Flesh. It's almost useless, but a bit of stirring and I managed to get enough for a thin layer or two. Predictably this tinted everything towards a very unusual flesh tone, and so I mixed in Karak Stone (with a subtle amount of white from palette) to again build up a kind of sandstone colour. It's the mixing of these colours, along with random impurities from the palette, that give depth and subtle variation to the final result: don't try to be too perfect or it looks flat, dull, and uninteresting.

Agrax Earthshade around deeper recessed areas and across rubble, then Seraphim Sepia to bring some random colour onto the stone areas, and it's actually at that point when I decided completely to skip any sort of marbling. I pondered whether I should fill in the tile designs with something else, but the return on investment there just wasn't going to make it worthwhile. A final edge highlight and "dusting" with Ushabti Bone and the base is just about done. I still need to paint the rim, which I'm thinking to make a dark brown or ochre. Black just seems too stark of a contrast.

The base itself was made from green-stuff and a texture roller, with texture paint to fill in a few places that didn't turn out properly and give it a damaged look. The cracks in the stone are simple carving into the green-stuff for fun - although next time I should do that before the green-stuff has fully cured.

And there we have it, a simple but effective base with character and very little effort required to paint. It still needs magnetising before I glue the Praetor on top; I'm still deciding whether I should just glue the feet down, or pin the model in place. Pinning would certainly give more solid contact, but could interfere with the magnets.

-- silly painter.

Captain Karlaen Kitbash - Part III

 

Hope the bionics don't weigh that much.

Before anything else, the picture above is not correctly colour balanced. The real skin tones aren't quite so unhealthy looking.

With that out of the way, painting has been abysmally slow of late. There's virtually no time throughout each day for anything. I'm going to try and counter this by painting small details on random models - anything that only needs three or four paints that I can put onto the palette and get done in 15 minutes. This idea was tested recently by painting Karlaen's head, which was taken from the Blood Angels upgrade sprue. I didn't want a shouting expression and needed the bionic eye to be on the right, and this particular head seemed to fit perfectly.

I used the Zorn Palette again here, or close enough to it. Bestigor Flesh, Incubi Darkness, Mephiston Red / Rhinox Hide mix, and Ulthuan Grey for the eye. There was blue on the palette that I used to dot in the iris as well. This particular time around it didn't turn out quite as well as I was hoping, but I still think the general idea is worth continuing to experiment with.

The NMM on the bionics was just some playing around that turned out a lot better than I was expecting. It's simply Incubi Darkness and Ulthuan Grey in varying mixes and glazes. I think a small amount of black might help to punch the contrast even more, but even so I quite like the result. I have no intention to use metallics there: the contrast of metallics elsewhere and NMM on the face will help keep the face as a focal point.

The hair I followed from a Warhammer youtube video:

• Zandri Dust.
• Ushabti Bone highlight, mixed lightly with Zandri Dust.
• Seraphim Sepia wash.
• Pallid Wych Flesh final highlight, although this was mixed with prior colours to keep it from being too overpowering.

And that's really it, the head is done and glued into place. The model is obviously far from being done, but it's actually fully assembled now. There are a plethora of details left to go and I'm not entirely sure how I'll get to all the cape's surfaces, or even what colours to use for it, but now the fun part starts as I get to see every brush stroke contribute to the final piece. Even as it stands I think I've managed to portray Karlaen well with this kitbash and it's definitely been worth the effort.

-- silly painter.

Devastator Squad - Part III

 

I'm blue da ba dee

Not having had much time recently for a multitude of reasons, I've not managed to get a whole lot of painting done. I'm hoping that spell is over for now and am trying to do just a little each day again - and in this case it was the helmets for the devastator squad. Being Blood Angels, famous for their red armour, the helmets are are naturally blue.

The first comment to make here is that I spend so much time with red that I can forget how nice other colours can be to work with. It must be something with the pigments, but blue seems to blend and glaze much more easily than red. The photo doesn't show the brightness variation very well, but also it's not my most perfectionist work ever: I was trying for good enough rather than ultra smooth transitions in some kind of attempt to progress these models. I was also finding the flow improver and a good brush combined making short work of it all.

These helmets are not varnished yet. The recess shading was never going to be overly complicated so I didn't feel the need. They'll get a coat later on when the models are fully assembled. This also means that when I looked at the post-airbrushed helmets and decided they were too dark, it was far easier to highlight. Traditionally I would use Kantor Blue followed by Macragge Blue, with Drakenhof Nighshade in the recesses and a final highlight with Caledor Sky. After the first two steps though, it was far too dark - the highlight was too subtle. This is likely because I'm improving in some aspects with an airbrush and thinning the paints properly: the airbrushed coats were far more translucent than before and it impacts the value jump of the highlight. I suspect I'm encountering this with the reds as well. The solution here was to simply add more volume highlights with glazes of Caledor Sky before finishing with Teclis Blue for edge highlights. I may increase the brightness of each when I assemble the models fully, but equally I might just forget by then too.

That's really all for this post. Time to get the next paint out and progress that little bit on whatever takes my fancy.

-- silly painter

Devastator Squad - Part II

 

Sergeant Shiny Pants

Slow painting progress again from a complete lack of spare time, so there's little to show for this week. I did manage to block in the base colour (literally, the colour on the base) and recess shade the whole squad. This of course is always done after a coat of gloss varnish, so the model will look very different until the later matt varnish stage.

Comparing the model currently against the prior photo, it occurred to me that the varnishing itself may end up being one of the sources of my problems. Layers of varnish will almost certainly dull the final colours and mute the highlights, which will necessarily mean that if I want to bring them back to full then I'll need to glaze the highlights back again later. That kind of control I really only have with a brush, so I'm once again wondering if I should just switch up the armour approach again.

The gloss varnish has two purposes: to help when recess shading (and it really does help that a lot!) but also to seal the airbrushed paint and stop it wearing off so easily. I can't really glaze over the gloss varnish too easily, but maybe I could after the matt varnish stage - in which case it's not worth putting so much effort into the initial highlights as they'll just be corrected later anyway. Maybe that's the answer: simpler airbrushing, glazes later to push the vibrancy and contrast a little. That could end up making the gloss varnish step also of reduced value: mistakes on the recessed shading can be fixed easily later. All worth thinking about after this squad is finished, and it's probably worth looking at simpler test models later just to explore the different approaches.

For when a backpack needs more height.

The other members of the squad I tried to go up to Typhon Ash in full highlight, after which I airbrushed Blood Angels Red as usual. The increase in brightness is rather noticeable and will help show through later - but it also shows that particular "noise" common with airbrush spray. Multiple thin passes undoes too much of the previous work to the point where I might as well go back to non-Contrast paints if I'll keep doing that. This might not be such a bad idea now that I'm far more familiar with how to proper thin airbrush paints. In either case, the smaller models will almost certainly still need a glazing pass later to push the shadows and highlights again.

Black Legion continues to be useful over the gloss varnish to give a good black foundation to work from, so the next week will probably be spent using that to block in colours all over the models before moving onto enough details that I can glue the arms in place. Or I could work on the helmets. Or any of the other projects currently ongoing. Much to be done!

-- silly painter

Blood Angels Legion Terminator Praetor - Part II

 

Looks cool on the battlefield because he can.

A delay in posting because reasons, but I'm back at painting again. Not sure how regularly throughout the week, but I'm planning to do a little across a range of models in one step: painting with the one colour is much easier to keep on standby and get something done whenever there's five minutes spare.

The Praetor I've continued to base coat details without moving into any shading or highlights. The head was done before assembly, but I needed to wait for the proper time to remove the masking tack and see how it matches up against everything else. The first thing to notice is that the helmet is much brighter than the rest of the model. This was to be expected: I'm still having some trouble with getting the reds bright enough through the airbrush. The head also has final highlights applied and hasn't been gloss varnished, both of which alter how it shows up in a photo. I think it will match more at the end, and if it's still brighter then it's not too bad as it will just keep attention on the "face".

The helmet is slightly raised on a blob of putty compared to how it's normally assembled. I felt that it was too sunken inside the armour before and slightly raised seemed to fit the proportions better. I perhaps should've adjusted angle of where he's looking, but maybe he's still bringing the storm bolter to bear on a target or otherwise shifting the weapon out of his way to get a better view for a moment.

I've not readied a base yet, however the putty is currently curing. I'm intending to cut up some pieces to create something like cathedral flooring that's been damaged in the fighting. I'm not convinced that I'll do a great job of it, but it's all experience. If I wanted I could design the base around where he should stand, but that seems like effort.

While I'm copying the box art closely, I'm also simplifying it in places. The model is busy enough and I think I've achieved a good balance with the basic colours blocked in. The metallics will of course need to wait until after the matt varnish, but I think it gives a very good impression of how the final result will be. There's still a cape to go too: the model looks imposing as he is, and while I'm not always keen on them I think a cape would really add to the level of authority he should carry. A blue tinted grey that's near white is what I'm likely to go for, bringing out the airbrush to see how easy it will be.

Back to the helmet, I debated a while if the face-plate should be red, black, gold, and again what the rest of the helmet should be. I've seen just about all combinations, and they work well. I ended up going for a black faceplate to match the jetbike squadron, red on the rest, and framing it all in black. I also went for glowing eye lenses in a departure from my normal reflective dot look, and put a thin layer of OSL around them. I think it really sells the menacing look and I might try keep that for other Terminators from the 30k setting.

-- silly painter

Sanguinary Guard - Part V (Showcase)

 

Have to wonder if he sculpted his own armour.

Sanguinary Guard are now considered complete. The bases are very simple, I could do an awful lot more there, but they're not the focus. The skulls are there purely to put skulls on bases (the pack of skulls was a gift) and to basically mark a model as done.

There's not too much not already covered from a painting perspective, so I'll be brief about that: the swords. The hilts are a mix of Warplock Bronze, Balthasar Gold, and Screaming Bell. Nothing fancy, just mix and layer. The blades are another matter, and I'm still not sure they worked how I wanted - but I definitely feel like there's potential to be had. I wanted the blades to be darker; bright blades would clash with the reflective armour and break the framing of the core of the model by unbalancing it. I also couldn't just leave them black. NMM might work, but I'd need to keep it very dark, which doesn't sell that technique too well, and I also wanted something to give them a hint of energy or inner power. And red. Ultimately this went something along the lines of:

• Black along the length of the blade.
• Corvus Black / Mechanicus Standard Grey to highlight the end, but also the base of the blade.
• Mechanicus Standard Grey / Ulthuan Grey to edge highlight the end and tip of the blade.
• Flesh Tearer's Red (Contrast) in multiple thin coats at the base of the blade, feathering it out into the middle.
• Stormshield varnish for extra protection and to unify the finish.

The second last step gives red because Blood Angels, but also darkens the base of the blade again. This kind of colour transition is an idea I used on Nekima and Mephiston to give that semi-mystical energy feel to the sword without relying on traditional power weapon effects. Note that because I don't give a unifying matt varnish to these models on account of the heavy use of metallics, I gave the sword blade a standalone varnish. These are the parts likely to come into contact with other surfaces and chip or have paint rub off.

His temper isn't a problem. For him.

I tried to give lettering a glow on the third sword, but silly me went and tried it over white. That just made everything pink. I should have gone for white, then yellow, and then red. I did play around with darkening metallics with whatever blacks and greys were on my palette, and that worked to a degree - enough that it's viable when the hilt is silver and the blade shouldn't match.

Not a whole lot more to say about the painting - it's all quite apparent, already covered, or nearly inconsequential (e.g "just use whatever is on the palette to make it semi-interesting"). So instead I'll mention some reflection on how the kitbashing, custom parts, and sculpting turned out.

First point is the 3d printed parts. This was the most obvious choice to give the models wings. There are other options I could have explored, but none would have looked half as good and taken twice as long. They fit with the model well, are a nice design, and with that I'm generally pleased. The print quality however shows that more traditional approaches with plastic or cast resin still reign supreme. Plastic cement is pretty damned useful too. Tidy up from supports is still needed on 3d printed parts, layer lines are very obvious in multiple places, and a multitude of artefacts are all around the place. I've done my best to cover up some of this, but it could've used some putty and sanding to improve on it all. This is just something to consider: unless dialling in your own 3d printer and spending a long time getting everything just right, imperfections from third party sellers are going to happen. Most of the problems aren't visible at the distance seen on a tabletop, but I wouldn't approve in a painting competition.

Sculpting little pieces on worked great. I could seem myself improving the more I played with it, and it's a skill I think I could master very quickly if I wanted and had the time for. It's the latter which is a problem, but I do want to continue to customise models in this way. Blood drop gemstones ended up being one of the easier things to sculpt as it turns out, however trying to make an impression of a larger detail and later glue it to the model wasn't as effective. Better to just sculpt directly onto a surface. Also, roughening up the surface really helps the putty stick.

Helmet is in the workshop.

The kitbashing itself I think worked well enough. Obviously the poses don't quite fit a model in flight or attacking with a jump pack, but the official models don't do that well either. It's really hard to have a dynamic pose with a flight capable model, despite some obvious designer best efforts, and I obviously can't do any better - but let it be known that I think some of the models from GW do execute such poses very well. Despite all of that, kitbashing was necessary to bring back the feel of Sanguinary Guard, and I really like the great range of options available to do just that. Each model has a unique pose, an individual look, and a sense of personality. There's stories that each one can tell, hints that their armour is still a work in progress by each of them, and yet they're elite warriors upholding the history and legends of those that came before.

Sure, the results aren't perfect, but the kitbashing was a good choice, and ultimately a cheaper one for me given that I already had a lot of spare parts to work with.

Finally, the paper under the bases is there to help remove the models. I magnetise the bases and they're otherwise hard up against steel washers. That could damage the magnets, but also the strength of the magnet might be more than the glue holding them to the base, so the bit of paper is just there to help slide the model of the washer.

-- silly painter.