Custodian Wardens - Part VI (Showcase)

 

Bodyguards looking for body oil.

Finally, done! It wasn't that there was an awful lot left to do, it's just that between work and horrible weather I've never had time or motivation to actually get them done. All finished at last though, standing tall and proud.

It's worth noting that these are large models, larger than Primaris possibly even the newer terminators. They're very imposing but it's really hard to get a feel for that without seeing them in person. A full squad in the middle of another force and you start to get a sense of how mean Custodian Guard can be.

In rounding out the weapons I fell back on my normal black weapon casing formula with with a slight twist:

• Corvus Black base coat over all the black details.
• Eshin Grey to build up initial highlights.
• Abaddon Black glazed into shadows.
• Ulthuan Grey / Eshin Grey (roughly 1:2, but depends) for edge highlights.

I played with the mixes of paint between stages and there was a good deal of back & forth before I had it just how I wanted. Generally the Ulthuan Grey was never used pure: it's too bright on its own and I wanted definition more than anything else.

Silver details are for the most part mixes of Doom Metal (TTC) and Iron Hands Silver. Everything else is covered fairly well in previous posts for the weapons.

The gemstones gave me pause for a while. I was originally going to paint them in a blue or teal colouration, but I decide that was going to stand out too much. One or two gemstones maybe, but all of them and the warmer tones of the armour will clash with the cooler blue too much. I then considered purple but again felt that I wanted more harmony and so went with basically red.

• Gal-Vorbak Red base coat.
• Wazdakka Red around most of the previous coat, but leave a small circular edge darker.
• Wild Rider Red as a crescent generally on the lower part.
• Fire Dragon Bright as a smaller crescent.
• Gal-Vorbak Red / Doom Death Black (TTC) in a circular shape opposite the crescent.
• Doom Death Black (TTC) glazed higher in the circular shape.
• White Star (TTC) reflection dots.
• 'Ardcoat over the gemstone to seal and make it gloss.

That's quite a lot for items to small. With everything on the wet palette it's much easier, and the TTC paints were chosen specifically for their thinning ability and slightly longer drying time. They have a matt finish but that gets pained with a gloss varnish anyway.

For the knuckles I decided they were simply far too small to bother going so far with and so I used Omega Blue (TTC) there and a few other places. That particular paint is quite vibrant and what else to say - it was a spur of the moment thing and I just went with it.

These are definitely worth the investment to paint them up to a high standard, and the marble basing suits them very well. I have a few more Adeptus Custodes in the backlog still, including Ixion Hale. I'm sorely tempted to start on his assembly. Maybe I'll just go find the box and see.

-- silly painter.

Custodian Wardens - Part V

 

So very shiny.

It's been a few weeks since the last post, which is an annoying consequence of incredibly busy work, alongside some other duties keeping free time at an absolute minimum. At last though I managed to finish up the armour on all models and fully assemble them. This makes them around ninety percent complete but for all the little details (gemstones in particular remain).

Since the last time, the remaining step has been to add a more extreme highlight to all the "gold" detailing. I wanted certain parts to stand out slightly more, such as the chest design in the picture above. This isn't about extreme edge highlights (which I can certainly still do) but a subtle brightness shift to pick them out more. Canoptek Alloy was the paint of choice here: thinned to an light glaze consistency because the paint has very good coverage and used to brighten specific areas. I mostly concentrated on "lines" of filigree and the chest.

I could go back and deepen recesses or add brighter highlight points, or more besides, but I figured enough is enough and they look about how I wanted. With everything being the same colour (more or less) then detailing isn't intended to stand out heavily. A conscious decision on my part to reveal more detail the longer you look rather than having it jump out straight away.

The silver components are just two colours in the end: Doom Metal (TTC) and Iron Hands Steel. The former for a base coat, followed by a mix of the two for initial highlights, and then the latter for final highlights. These areas are small and don't need many colours to make them work.

The top-knot is another three-colour scheme, which is chosen to ensure the gold isn't overshadowed by highlights elsewhere and also just to make it easier! Mephiston Red base coat, Shyish Purple (Contrast, thinned a little) as a wash concentrated underneat, and then thinly highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet. This is brighter than the the lower parts of the model, but with a satin finish that contrasts against the armour to give it a different look.

The weapon has taken some thought. For now it's based coated with pick-your-black over most parts (the grip was painted previously so wasn't touched) and the blade left from airbrushing. I wanted a power weapon feel but without the lightning patterning commonly used (personal preference, I generally don't like it) so ultimately went with a combination of Doom Metal (TTC), Omega Blue (TTC), and Grey Knights Steel. The latter paint is darker than you might think so I was using that to shade more than anything else and pure Omega Blue for most of the edge highlights. Doom Metal mixes well with either and was used to help create shadowed parts or otherwise generally define the shape of the blade.

The blade additionally has wing designs which normally I've seen painted gold. I tried that and then glazed the blue metallics over the top to represent glow from the blade: this definitely works but still didn't seem to fit. Reasoning that the wing design is essentially the power node from other power weapons I simply base coated with Grey Knights Steel, highlighted to a pure Omega Blue on the tips, and used Drakenhoft Nightshade to add definition. The axe looks reasonable here but I'm not yet sold on the spears. I suspect I'll not be happy with anything and will end up leaving it as-is.

The gold on the weapons I've been playing around with a lot just to see if I could approximate the main armour but with far less effort. I think I've stumbled onto something acceptable: Balthasar Gold base, followed by Reikland Fleshshade (Seraphim Sepia normally but in this case I wanted a slight red tint to tie into the other reddish parts), then a mix of the base coat with Retributor Armour and finally mixing in Canoptek Alloy for the last highlights.

The weapon needs the black to be worked with some more yet, and aforementioned gemstones, some cabling and other sundry details, but they are definitely started to look like they'll be finished soon. Not that soon however because I'll be away for a couple of weeks again. I hope after I'm back I can find the time to sit down and complete these models so that I might then move onto the next project.

-- silly painter

Custodian Wardens - Part IV

 

No, the axe is not for chopping firewood.

It's taken some time to do not much visibly on account of very little time to paint, and what time there has been was spent getting every other model in the squad to the same level. Nearly. Unbelievably, I'm still not done with armour yet either.

Mostly highlighted as described before, I'm still going to pick out some areas with a heavily thinned Canoptek Alloy. This is a very strong paint normally and I don't want it to overpower what's there, but the detailing isn't standing out quite as much as I would like just yet. I will need to be very careful to not ruin everything.

The helmet lenses are really simple:

• Wazdakka Red
• Rust Orange (TTC) within the red.
• Fire Dragon Bright as a final highlight.

I did go back in with a black to outline where the red went outside the edges, but that wasn't always necessary. I didn't bother with white reflection dots - the lenses are barely visible as it is, anything more isn't really adding anything to the model.

The faceplate is simply Iron Warriors covered with Iron Hands Steel. I wanted a very polished look and didn't bother with any fancy gradients or shading. Other steel / silver areas have Doom Metal (TTC) for shading, but I'll reserve more extreme highlight points for the weapon most likely.

Finally (this is a short post) Flesh Tearers Red was used to fill in the gaps on the pauldrons and introduce more colour to break up the monotony there. I thinned it and used a couple of layers to build it up. I'm not sure it worked quite as nicely as if I'd used something else base and layer up highlight points, but I wanted to try something different and it fulfils the original purpose.

There are still a few details to go before I turn my attention to the weapons, but they are coming along nicely. I just hope everything else begins to calm down enough to let me finish these models without too much more delay.

-- silly painter

Custodian Wardens - Part III

 

Seen some shit.

This is a shorter post about more than just the Custodian Wardens, but concerns faces in general. There's only one model in the set that I've assembled without a helmet, and that was purely because I thought it suited the silhouette better.

To start with, the sculpt lends itself to older white haired look. It really does for some reason - it just has that grizzled veteran vibe. Obviously the Custodian Guard do age, so I would assume this guy has been at it for a very long time and has witnessed a lot. He's also very well groomed.

Painting the face actually used comparatively few paints. I started off with Night Lords Blue but didn't exactly go for complete coverage. A little patchy in areas is ok as it will give a more natural look in the end. Barak-Nar Burgundy was next, leaving the previous colour in the recessed areas and just kind of sketching out the shapes. These colours were chosen for no other reason than they were on the palette at the time, but that's again something that gives a more natural look: not every person has exactly the same skin tone, and it's the variation in models that make them look realistic.

Barbarian Brawn and Dwarven Flesh, both TTC paints, were then used to build up the skin tones by mixing in previous colours and highlighting up as I went along. The deeper recesses and lower parts of the face predominantly used Night Lords Blue mixed in to give colder shadows, while Barak-Nar Burgundy faded out from there and was also more apparent to the sides of the head. Final highlights are pure Dwarven Flesh, glazed into place: nose, upper cheeks, and the forehead. I made a conscious choice to keep the front of the face brighter and this really sells the look. It helps define the shape of the head and keep attention where it should be.

The beard and hair is Trooper White, another TTC paint, which is also the "whites" of the eyes. The iris is just Night Lords Blue, and I did not even try to put in a black pupil. I did mix in some of the blue and burgundy into the white for initial hair colouring, moving more to the blue later. I used very little pure Trooper White for the hair; (barely) a hint of another colour is sufficient to make it look more natural.

I stopped about there. I could make the skin tone brighter, but that might clash with the hair and the skin was looking sufficiently leathery by this stage. I just added eyebrows then blue tinted cabling around the head and glued it in place.

Guardian Spear with built-in boltgun, but still wants to use a knife.

This model is not really fully assembled quite yet. The pauldrons and cape are just resting in place right now so that I can easily access some of the still visible parts of the model, but I do get a good feel of how everything will look in the end - and I'm happy with how that's going. I still need to highlight the armour on this model (and most of the others). Next models I'm definitely not going to go quite this hardcore on.

-- silly painter.

Custodian Wardens - Part II

 

Wonder if he washes his own cloak.

While the armour still hasn't received final highlights, I have managed to figure out the other major piece of the model: the cape / cloak / whatever. It took me a while to come up with an idea for that, and actually I had something in mind when I saw something similar from Trovarion.

The idea is that while it can go vibrant, it shouldn't look reflective. The shadows are are cooler and tend towards blue or purple, where the highlights are the warmer tones of a red. This gives contrast and readability while still looking softer, possibly like velvet. I did not want to use simply darker red or black for shadows and nor did I think a wash was appropriate. In the end it was just three paints:

• Barak-Nar Burgundy base coat.
• Night Lords Blue / Barak-Nar Burgundy (1:1) in the shadowed areas, basically anything facing down. The ratios aren't exact: more blue in the deeper recesses, more burgundy glazed into lighter areas.
• Mephiston Red build up for the highlights. Mixing this with a hint of Barak-Nar Burgundy helps transition in places to the purer red which is mostly reserved for upwards facing surfaces higher up.

I'm not sure if a brighter red is suitable or not and so haven't added anything more quite yet. I can always do that later once the helmet is in place and the armour highlighted more.

Rather obviously the model is glued to a base now. I haven't pinned the model in place but something tells me I should have. I'll think about it if they ever come off. Ideally I should have aligned the legs and drilled holes before putting the topper in place but it was too late to do that by the time I'd thought of it. Maybe next time.

The leather braces I straight up stole from a Duncan Rhodes video:

• Doombull Brown
• Nuln Oil
• Doombull Brown glazed into some volume highlights again.
• Rust Orange TTC (or Squig Orange from Citadel, but mine had all dried up) to edge highlight.

Very simple and yet effective. The weapon grips were similar:

• Doombull Brown
• Carroburg Crimson
• Rust Orange to highlight
• Doombull Brown glazed over the highlights to knock them back slightly.

I still have the rest of the squad to complete all of these steps for and so I suspect the next update might take another week or two. Everything is just slow going right now. At least the hard part is over and I think I can just paint without thinking of how to do each little detail.

-- silly painter.

Custodian Wardens - Part I

 

Probably buried his head in the sand.

Rather unfortunately, I had assembled some Custodian Wardens earlier in the year and was always planning to paint them alongside some of the 30k models. Or maybe fortunately: I wouldn't be painting them at all with the crass bullshit being delivered in 30k Custodes.

I'll not go much into it other than: the way it was handled was pathetic, and the new designs with boob armour are again taking away choice. Give people head swap options, don't force specific ideologies onto everyone. I'll grab that dreadnought probably, heavily convert it, but the agenda driven troops have turned me right off the whole faction. On a side note, I'd been eyeing off Daughters of Khaine and now they're going the prude route and destroying the entire character of the faction.

Anyway, onto painting. There's not a whole lot done so I'll try be quick about it (note: glossy armour doesn't show up nicely in the photos I take, but the actual model does look much better). The first few layers use an airbrush:

• Dryad Bark Air to cover the entire model. This will serve as the basic shadow colour, but also helps give a richer gold tone rather than applying the gold direct over a black primer.
• Balthasar Gold Air over most of the model, leaving only the direct downward facing surfaces as Dryad Bark. The gold is best thinned and applied in multiple layers - which goes the same for everything following.
• Valdor Gold Air as a mostly Zenithal coat. This isn't entirely apparent, more or less makes the model a little more desaturated, but it still helps the next layers.
• Thallax Gold Air mostly covering the Zenithal, but letting it bleed into other areas if they were missed before. Thin coats is still the name of the game. This colour in particular really gives a rich golden colour to work with.
• Imperial Gold Shade (Vallejo TMM), applied with a brush. This paint helps give definition but does shift the colour very slightly. It works best when covering an entire surface but then encouraging the pigment towards recesses. It can be feathered off larger surfaces if necessary.
• Cryptek Armourshade Gloss, thinned at least 1:1 (if not more) with acrylic flow improver and then used to further define some of the shapes. I mostly guided this around recesses considered to be "underneath". Try not to let this pool too heavily because the gloss nature of the paint will be at odds for a shadow area. I may try to use Warplock Bronze for wing designs to give darker contrast to recessed parts without the extreme gloss of the shade, and then build that up through the gold layers. I'll think on that one.
• Thallax Gold Air / Liberator Gold mixed roughly 1:1 and glazed for initial highlights. I intend to work up to pure Liberator Gold at a later stage, but haven't done that yet.

The cloth is for the moment just Barak-Nar Burgundy, which will be the shadow colour and I'll highlight up to a red afterwards. Even this colour could perhaps be mixed with black to really deepen the folds - something to explore.

And that's really it. The shading and glazed highlight stages take quite a long time and so most of the rest of the squad are still waiting on those steps.

I played with feeding Omega Blue (TTC range metallic) through the airbrush with thinner and learned that while it does work, don't just use thinner. Use at least equal amounts of flow improver to stop it being so watery. While yes this did work and would be great for essentially airbrush glazing (I do have some ideas of where to take that), it took a few layers to build up a strong base colour. If doing that, just use a brush.

That's about all for now. For reasons, I won't be able to post for another two, possibly three weeks and then it'll be probably back to Sons of Horus assault troops.

-- silly painter.

Blood Angels Champion - Part V (Showcase)

 

You're mine.

There's not too much to really say other than this model is now considered complete. I could, as always, do a lot more. Push the highlights more, particularly on the red armour and pauldron gold trimming. The armour, most notably, could be held up to the standard of the right leg but everywhere.

After the matt varnish, the final glazed highlights are, as usual, extremely simple and most effective. It takes me between twenty minutes to half an hour to complete it all, but the result is by far well worth it. It restores vibrancy and really helps to define the model as a whole. Spending more time on this step would no doubt help turn it into a competition winner - but only if I added a couple more colours on the palette to deepen shadows as well. Need to stop somewhere.

The centre chest detailing was highlighted with Castellax Bronze, and then an equal parts mix with Sycorax Bronze. It's a very neutral brown result that keeps the chest from drawing too much attention away from the golden helm, but there's enough value contrast to clearly define the shape. There's still room to push the highlights further if needed, which I can keep in mind when using something similar on other models.

The writing on the scroll (model's right pauldron) is simply a decal, but cut into three pieces and carefully aligned. I possibly could have aligned it better. I also could have painted over the top, but it was already well enough readable that I didn't bother. Look closely and the printing dots are visible, but I simply didn't fancy spending an hour to fix that up - not when I'm happy with the result as it stands, and besides I don't paint over other decals normally. Just as long as I don't pretend it's freehand then it's fine.

Everything else is fairly run of the mill. I think the whole model comes together well enough, and it's certainly unique. A mixture of kitbashing, third party parts, and even a little putty in key places, and there's a distinctly Blood Angel feel coming out of a "Bladeguard" veteran. Only four more of these models to go, but I'll do them one at a time. The next will undoubtedly have a shield handy.

-- silly painter.

Blood Angels Champion - Part IV

 

Champion and Dedork.

Progress. Very slow, but progress.

The base has been done and now has an Ork skull with grass growing next to it. A special character model such as this probably deserves a more blinged-out base, but fitting him in with the rest of the models means I'm going for something a bit simpler. The skull rather than freshly hewn head means it wasn't this champion's work, but it seemed appropriate given the swords.

I'm trying something new with the swords here, and have actually already changed it up a bit, but the basic idea is: dark metal sword to make a blue metal "glow" appear brighter by contrast. I still don't like the look of generic everything-blue power swords, and so I keep experimenting. The tips being blue help define shape, but that's the part already adjusted in other models: using silvers instead. Steel swords in good condition should be very well polished and reflective, which works nicely with NMM techniques, but I figure power swords need different materials to help them work and so the darker metal colour of Doom Metal (TTC) shouldn't be too out of place but really makes the Omega Blue (TTC) seem that much more vibrant.

In this case the blue tips of the swords unbalanced everything too much and I need to draw attention back towards the torso and helmet. The small accents of green in the eye lenses isn't large enough to do that on its own, so I needed something close enough to blue to balance out the swords and lead the viewer on a path there. It's subtle, but the purple gems on the pauldrons is what I ended up going with. Just that little bit of colour variety that doesn't make the swords stand out quite so much, and draws a line towards the helmet. This also means the details on the shins shouldn't stand out too much, which is what lead me to using Grey Knight's Steel on the central blood drop symbol. It's not quite blue (actually more purple I think), but happened to be on my palette at the time. The symbol to the sides I'll paint up as red - it will add visual interest, but shouldn't draw attention away from the rest of the model.

I might try mixing Castellax Bronze with Sycorax Bronze to highlight the chest detailing. I haven't tried it yet but I'm hoping it'll be enough to highlight without going too bright - and I might need to leave it until after the matt varnish anyway.

I'll definitely try to get the smaller details filled in soon so that I might get to the final stages of this model. It's about time I finished it really. I have plenty of other models that have been painted in the background too, however keeping momentum up is difficult and actually finishing a project always helps.

-- silly painter.

Captain Karlaen Kitbash - Part VI (Showcase)

 

Back, bigger than ever.

I'm calling it done on the conversion / kitbash of Captain Karlaen. I absolutely could go all-out on highlighting the armour more, making it really pop, but that would take at least another two days and then I'd have to start fixing other little mistakes too. This model is not a competition piece, but I've learned enough that it could be.

Before anything else, a nice sable hair brush with paint at the right glaze consistency (preferably using flow improver) over the matt varnish really, truly does wonders for highlighting red armour. Synthetics don't quite have the same softness or "spring" to them, and the matt varnish evens out the brush strokes in a way that's difficult to describe. I may have to use this to really step it up a notch on another model before too long.

For learning NMM, this model has been both a success, and a failure. I learned a lot about light placement, shadow placement, and using contrast to bring out the shape of something. The hammer haft and the storm bolter worked particularly well. The tilting shield trim did not. The rest of the gold was hit and miss - I could probably make it work, but I don't think the formula for gold was quite right for this model. I also need to use more mid-tones with less yellow because it goes too bright too fast.

What really helped with NMM for me was not starting from the darkest colour. Start from the mid-tone. That's the "unlit" colour of the metall, everything else is just adding light and dark for reflections to sell the effect.

If I'm going to continue learning NMM then I may need to add some texturing to the mix to help differentiate NMM from something simply lighter in colour. The Crux Terminatus is too close to the NMM areas and might come across as an earlier experiment - but actually I want it to look more like stone. Weirdly I could probably make it work with NMM quite well, but I think that a stone look gives them more weight, makes the armour look heavier, more powerful, and more menacing. In the meantime though, I want to switch back to metallics - I like the end look of them more in most cases, but I can still apply some of the lessons learned here.

The inner cape is darker than I originally intended. There's no colour reason for this - it was just difficult to reach that area and it was getting annoying. It was a risk I took, but next time I'll paint the cape before gluing the model into position.

The hammer grip was a good choice to be something other than red. It makes the hammer more distinct, whereas something more red or brown might have looked like an extension of the arm.

I could spend ages pointing out defects, mistakes, and generally describing everything in minute detail, but there's not really a whole lot of point to that. Also I'm tired and just want to finish up. The model was, overall, a successful kitbash. I know what I could improve in future for kitbashing, I know more than before about the placement of light and shadow, and I have a nice looking miniature all painted up before the end of the year.

-- silly painter.

Captain Karlaen Kitbash - Part V

Back to it.

I somehow managed to get a fair amount done on Captain Karlaen recently, although most of that will be revealed later on the front. I'm still focusing on NMM techniques, and learning quite a lot in the process; I haven't cracked cubes yet, but I'm improving on other shapes.

The gold didn't really sit with the vision of what I wanted (it's too yellow) and so I experimented with something else on the hammer. I tried more of a white-gold, but in all honesty it didn't turn out at all. I dislike it so much that I'm not even going to write down the paints used - it's simply too beige, too sandy, and so I'll go back to the prior gold colouring for the rest: the right shoulder obviously need completing, along with the Iron Halo, along with a few odds and ends. Still, when painting the wing shape on the hammer I tried to give more contrast with a darker red in the shadows. This might work if I nudged into more ochre colours, something between yellow and brown and only moving to beige on the brightest reflection points. One mistake I did correct on the fly was when I realised I was painting the red as normal volume highlights without taking into account the angle; the deeper shadows would come from ground bounce light, and given the angle of the hammer this means they spread into the outer areas of each "feather". It's an interesting effect in the end and worth that realisation even if I don't like the overall colouring.

Over the rest of the hammer I stuck mostly to an dark iron / steel, borrowing mostly from the recipe used on Azrakh, but swapping a few colours around as I felt like it. I even tried Barak-Nar Burgundy mixed with the black, but subtle as I tried, the warm colour stood out too much.

Cylindrical shapes are easy when it comes to reflection points. It's mostly a brighter line down the length of the cylinder, some brighter does on the edges at either end. Cubes though, they're harder to make interesting. If they're highly reflective they simply act as mirrors, but with the environment missing then it's hard to show that. I settled for some kind of banding, which actually works better on swords. In future I might simply paint it a single gradient for the most part, or perhaps be a lot more subtle in the gradients, with only contrasting value jumps for the edges and corners.

One of the other techniques I was trying was really to build up highlights from a mid-tone, and then shade down from that same mid-tone. This worked. NMM isn't just about where to highlight, but where to add shadow and darker areas too, and both of these are easier from the mid-tone rather than trying to build up from darkest to brightest. White dots help sell the effect too.

I still don't really like NMM in general for miniatures, but it does work if done properly. It's just very difficult to do properly such that it works from multiple viewing angles. The shoulders don't do this, which is why I stopped. The left one looks amazing from the top, but not as nice from the front or side. The haft actually takes this into account and I have multiple reflection lines with a darker area between, allowing for the effect to be seen from multiple angles. the storm bolter has this slightly, but that's only really of interest when viewed from a certain angle anyway. The shoulders I don't think will work as I originally intended, but at least I'm learning why. I understand the advice from Darren Latham when he remarked in a blog post somewhere to pretend there are four light sources, one in each corner of a square above the model. It's what makes his style work on 3d pieces.

Ultimately I understand that NMM offers contrast and definition, which are critically important for miniature painting, but I also think it's not quite as easy as that. It will look nice in photos - but this isn't a two dimensional medium and that needs to be taken into account. I also like to play with the finish, from matt, to satin, to gloss. I'm convinced that mastering metallics hasn't fully been realised yet, that contrast is still possible with them, and definition. On that note I have two sets of Vallejo's TMM range, so I'll see how that goes on another model.

-- silly painter

 

Blood Angels Champion - Part III

 

He slices, he dices...

Been a few weeks since any update because very good reasons, but I'm back at semi-regular painting again and decided to block in a few colours. There's not a whole lot of painting information really, this is just trying to get a sense of the final look of the model, which itself is often just as important.

The base is very bare right now and definitely will need some attention. Rocks, scrub, a skull or two, and it should be passable, but this kind of model normally deserves something a little better. This basing is chosen to fit with the rest of the army, but Astartes are unlikely to be found in that environment without something else to indicate fortifications, enemy troops, etc; Astartes would not fight across open terrain in such a fashion. They're a surgical strike force that targets the enemy directly and would be susceptible to enemy artillery when trying to combat in the open like that. They would instead be delivered close to the enemy and strike hard and fast, and thus the bases would show signs of something: bricks, pavement, discarded items, tracks, wires, sludge, etc. I'll need to consider it for the other models in the eventual squad as well.

The armour will almost certainly have a final glazing pass after the matt varnish to help it compete against all the metallics. That will be simple enough and I think so far the idea of the airbrush only being used as a foundation to build upon is working well.

The swords will see a splash of colour later, but I do want to keep them quite dark. The brighter colours surrounding the chest and head currently draw attention that way and I'd like to keep that intact if I can.

Steel Legion Drab and Zandri Dust are very similar, especially with the latter covered in Agrax Earthshade, which is good to note for future reference. The former could probably be highlighted with the latter. Too bad both paints are in bad shape for me and will need replacing before too long. They've each lasted some 13 years though, so all things considered I'm happy with them.

The model is shaping up nicely, but I need to keep an eye on the volumes. They will make all the difference between simply good from the details, and great.

-- silly painter.

Blood Angels Champion - Part II

 

The chest is watching you.

The "Bladeguard" without a shield is painted enough to be fully assembled. I really wanted this done for motivational purposes, but it also helps to better guide the colour scheme, which I haven't yet fully decided upon. The photo is colour adjusted slightly because the gloss varnish reflections washed the colours out too much: the reds are perhaps slightly deeper than in actuality, but it's not too far off.

Airbrushing this model I returned to the tried & true formula of:

• Mephiston Red / Dryad Bark (1:1) base coat.
• Mephiston Red initial highlight.
• Evil Sunz Scarlet second highlight.

Knowing how to thin the paints, build up layers, and control the airbrush more than I once did, the end result was pretty inspiring, but I didn't focus on that being the final steps. I would almost certainly adjust things later with a brush anyway, so I was focused on a foundation to build upon. I went back with a paint brush to add glazes in a few places, but it was relatively minor and didn't take long. With that in mind, it was gloss varnish and shading time.

The shading I did not bother with even trying to panel line. If I'm going to clean up later, why bother? Also there's so much detail that it would've been pointless anyway: just give an overall wash and fix up later if necessary. As it turns out, with one drop of flow improver to one drop of the shade paint (Crimson Carroburg, the more Contrast-like version) and everything just kind of worked. A few minor places weren't quite how I wanted, but even they weren't bad. Using the normal acrylic versions of the airbrush paints and I had everything fixed up, re-highlighted, and even basic edge highlighted in about 20 minutes (speed painting for me).

By this stage there are three rounds of working on the red armour highlights, and yet it's still faster than before. I'm mostly working with glazes and very soft reinforcement of what is already there, and even then the primary reason for not doing everything at the end is that I want to keep the visuals with me as I paint other areas. Painting it last would mean I lose track of the mental end picture and would be making far too mistakes from trying too hard. Lean into layering and glazing to keep the model looking nice, and each subsequent step will be shorter and easier.

I've decided on my normal gold recipe for armour trim, with Castellax Bronze for the filigree and detailing. This should provide colour variation and interest without clashing colours. Cryptek Armourshade mixed with flow improver in a 1:1 ratio gives shading without going too dark. I'm not sure what to do next with that - I don't want to go too bright or colourful, but it needs something to pick out highlights and for definition. Studs are Doom Metal (TTC) with silver initial highlights, but I need to go back in there and push the highlights more while also respecting the volume of the leg. That just means the studs closer to the middle will be highlighted more brightly.

There's obviously a lot of blocking in yet to do, the base needs some attention, and more besides, but I think the pose is striking and this will become one of my nicer models in the end.

-- silly painter.

Wraithlord - Part III

 

Sparkly sword!

This model is quickly turning into a bit of an annoyance really. I've already done what I intended with it and it's mostly just going through the motions at this point.

I'm still struggling with the black armour highlights, but using Two Thin Coats paints of Trooper White and Doom Death Black I tried to see how well point highlights would work. And it works well: I managed to the right of the head to make something that looks like shiny highlight point. The only real problem is that it took so incredibly long that I couldn't justify continuing. Next I figured I would simply try drybrushing and focus on the overall highlights of the model without going into detail.

I still struggle to drybrush, but with these paints I managed...something. It's not really drybrushing, more like damp-smashing. The TTC paints have a longer drying time, so using a drybrush I loaded up some paint and initially highlighted some areas before feathering those out, before mixing in more black and kind of wet-blending it down. Think dry brushing motions to perform wet blending to smooth out the transitions. It's not terribly precise but it worked well enough to build up the overall lights and I could go back in with black to darken areas and better define certain shapes.

The head, or helm, is Typhon Ash (from Citadel) airbrushed on to build up a solid layer and then a few sepia tones to add shading. I originally went with Skeleton Horde, but that was far too soft (possibly because I used too much thinner) and so then went with Darkoath Flesh. I wasn't being careful, the airbrush pressure was too high and there was water mixed in - basically poor glazing and some speckling on there, but this is actually something I wanted. Ulthwé are bone and black, but bone here wouldn't really be ultra-smooth so I wanted some texture to show through. A thin airbrushed glaze of Typhon Ash again across the "face" and that's about all. I'll either need to freehand or use a decal at some point to add the Ulthwé symbol.

The loincloth or whatever it is, I used an old brush to kind of stab the paint on to build up texture. Again, I didn't want smooth: I wanted texture to separate it from the armour. I built up from Doombull Brown covering all of the cloth, then XV-88 (at this point it really looked like flayed skin, must remember that for Nightlords) and then Balor Brown, each step covering less than before to keep shadows along folds. This was still too stark for my liking, so I then used Typhon Ash to glaze over pretty much all of it - enough to lighten to more of an off-white cloth, but not enough to hide the underlying texture or shadows completely.

The blade I purely mucking around. Trooper White across all of it, but too little to build up a solid layer. Typhon Ash to strengthen the colour, but it was too thin and spidered across areas. Magenta ink glazed across the base, then transitioning to Aethermatic Blue, leaving the end off-white. I was going for a crystal look, and it works here more for the contrast against the desaturated colours of the rest of the model.

No idea yet on how to paint up the rest of the model, but I'll keep at it as and when I feel motivated and see where I end up I suppose.

-- silly painter

Blood Angels Champion - Part I

 

Looks this pissed without the Black Rage.

I've been assembling a couple of models in the background, having finally decided to get started on some of my "Bladeguard" stand-ins. I don't see the official models as particularly evoking the aesthetic taste of Blood Angels; the official models are simply too generic and lacking the detailing that Blood Angels would surely include on their armour. So I decided to look around for a way to improve upon that and stumbled across the Seraphim Knights from Kromlech. I also bought some shields from Kromlech as they also seemed more ornate than hunting down more official variants. The result is that I have five main bodies, but only three shields. I'd have to do something with a couple of them.

I struck upon the idea of a Champion, dual wielding power swords, striding forward to engage his next target. The body and shoulder pads are from Kromlech, with the left arm from a Primaris upgrade sprue. It has a vial attached with rope that was at the wrong angle for how I positioned the arm, so the vial needed to be removed and reattached, with a little green-stuff to blend it back into the model. It's not visible in the photo above.

The backpack is very plain for now, and I intend to hand paint some filigree there later. I could try sculpt more, but lacking time for such things right now I just wanted to get the model started. I did need to fill in the attachment point of the backpack just because the back of the Kromlech model is a smooth surface and there wouldn't otherwise be anywhere for glue to find purchase. I might need to pin things later anyway as superglue doesn't seem to stick very well to whatever resin Kromlech use.

The helmet in the photo is a stand-in. I'll be using a plain one instead, leaving the squad leader marking for another model.

The right arm ended up being a little more tricky than everything else combined. I found an arm from spares that had roughly the right angle and trimmed away the boltgun and hand. I then found a hand from another spare arm which was holding a knife, which is more suitable to the handling of a sword. There was a lot of careful cutting away to preserve that hand. I then took the power sword from a terminator arm on the Primaris upgrade sprue (which really took a lot of very careful cutting) and glued in place on the hand. Next the bottom of the sword was added, with a small amount of green-stuff to fill gaps and solidify the connection. Next the hand was pinned to the arm at a slight angle to better position the sword how I wanted, and some green-stuff ribbing used to fill the gap. More green-stuff was used together with super-glue to attach the arms to the torso.

The shoulder pads were also attached by using a small amount of green-stuff to give better surface contact for the glue. I was a little impatient in doing this so not everything is perfect, but it's good enough. While I was using green-stuff, I also padded under the feet ever so slightly to give room on the base for later adding texture paints. This avoids trying to keep the texture paint free of the feet to not "bury" them, while allowing for a better connection to the base and more stability on the painting handles. The downside is that I need to be more careful painting the bases themselves, but it will probably be worth the tradeoff.

Now that everything is primed, I'm probably going back to an airbrush soon with my old forumla of painting red (without Contrast) to build up the initial highlights. The photo above will serve as a reference for that, but I'm expecting to need a few manual tweaks later as well. The intent of the airbrushing before was to get the volume highlighting entirely done, but now I'm starting to see it as an initial basis to build upon. this should let me be more free with the airbrushing stage, but I'll want to match paints better so I'll stick to the normal and air ranges of Citadel for that.

-- silly painter

Captain Karlaen Kitbash - Part IV

 

Fear me, for I have a big hammer.

In the background I've been working on the Karlaen kitbash, just as I feel like it. I was originally going to paint metallics, but decided to try NMM on this model as well just for the fun of it.

The recipes are no different from more recent explanations, so I won't bother going over them again here. The gold is a little different on the actual model; colour balancing of the photo isn't quite right, and the reflection points are brighter and more white. Even so, the gold trim is probably a little too yellow. I use a base of Balthasar Gold with metallics for a reason: I like the darker gold it gives. I'll probably keep going with this for now though, at least on the armour. I may switch it up for the Thunder Hammer, to try replicate the colours of the metallics there.

I really should have left Karlaen off the base until at least the underside of the cape was painted. That's going to be a bit of a nightmare to get to now.

Obviously a lot to go on this model still. I'm not trying to paint it as my "primary" model, but may have to pick up the pace and get it finished by the end of the year, before I lose interest entirely. Better to have the model finished and be slightly unhappy with it, then sitting unfinished and be very unhappy with it.

-- silly painter.

Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought - Part VI (Showcase)

 

"That one. I want to crush that one."

The last of the old school dreadnoughts in my collection is now done. I say that, but it's taking a lot of effort to not put some wear & tear on those power fists - but I'm concerned that if I start there then I won't know where to stop.

There's nothing new painting-wise. It's just edge highlighting over the matt varnish, some metallic highlights to bring back shine there, and a little gloss varnish in places. The edge highlights on the armour were not done with my good brushes and I needed to be more careful after some early mistakes. I've intentionally left the feet without much in the way of edge highlights to make sure most of the attention is drawn to the upper area, predominantly the torso.

Interestingly enough the one part I like the least is the searchlight on the right shoulder. It's just yellow and boring. I don't go back over these sorts of things and instead let them serve as a reminder of what to avoid for future models - really I should just use an orange contrast or something to darken that area and give it some depth.

Some of the decals didn't work as nicely as I would have liked. That's just cheap decals more than anything else. The older ones are susceptible to this kind of thing, and it would've taken a lot more effort to get rid of the translucent outline, so I'm just leaving it. My own printed decal however fits in perfect, and once painted over really does make up for poor free-hand writing skills. Only downside is that I actually need to print them out - and I didn't have "FURY" available, making that a rather poor effort. Maybe I was just wanting the model done my now instead of doing everything proper - there appear to be a lot of "this should have been better" in this reflection.

Some things did turn out rather nicely in the end. The white wings are white, and the contrast paints did their job perfectly. Whether or not it fits in the general aesthetic (generally in my opinion: yes), they turned out just as I wanted them. Scroll colouring was the best I've ever done on the left leg. Experimenting with metallics also worked out nicely - I still have some mastering to do there, but I think an overall improvement compared to just shiny and silver. I also think the colour and value of base balances nicely against the the dreadnought and still looks different enough compared to his brothers. Oh, and there's a little blue gemstone that turned out really well. It just about glows. I like that bit.

-- silly painter.

Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought - Part V

 

Frag it.

This won't be a long post; mostly this is just to show the frag cannon.

The alternate arm has been painted in line with everything else, but I'm still not sure how to attach it. I could just leave it be: the arms fit snugly together as it is, but there's still that pesky matter of storage. The only real thing stopping me from adding magnets is that I'm not sure how to attach them reliably here; the arms don't have slots for magnets and I would need to build up something with putty - itself would have been more suitable during initial assembly.

There's nothing particularly out of the ordinary for painting the frag cannon arm. Reliable, trustworthy painting already achieved elsewhere, although I'm not sure about the targeting lens. It might look better after varnishing. The ammo feed was actually painted before assembly just to make it easier to reach the storage bin (even if it makes virtually no sense to externally feed the ammo to begin with). The arm is rather surprisingly far more simplistic than it otherwise might seem, and was much easier to paint then anything else. It doesn't hurt that I'm not trying to paint every little rivet a different colour.

This last of the Furioso series that I'm painting is not far off from being done now. There still needs to be a matt varnish over everything, followed by final metallic highlights to restore shine, and final armour edge highlights for definition. I'm sure a few minor details later too (gloss varnish across gemstones and lenses comes to mind). I just need to find the spare time to actually finish everything - and spare time is in very short supply right now.

-- silly painter.

Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought - Part IV

 

"I am their doom."

Next on the list of models started long ago but not yet finished is the Furioso Dreadnought. There hasn't been a whole lot new on the legs and torso, so instead this will focus on the arms.

Even then there isn't much to really say. I'm painting the arms. I'm also trying to figure the best way for at least the right arm to be removable and a frag cannon used (the alternate arm that I'm also painting up). It will no doubt involve magnets, but the arms are hollow and I need to figure out the best way to secure them. Unless I simply stick with using the push-fit nature of the arm connectors to hold everything and not worry about ease of swapping things out. Much thought to be had.

Most of the metallics on the arms are so far:

• Doom Metal
• Iron Warriors
• Iron Hands

I think this works better than simply sticking to a wash for definition, but the blending can be hit & miss. I'll keep at it. Still undecided on what I'll do after varnishing - re-highlight with Iron Hands, or edge highlights with Ironbreaker.

The melta gun received the same yellow and white treatment prior to Blood Angels Red as was used on the boarding actions terrain. I was curious how it might look in a different setting - if it might look like the glow of a heat based weapon, or just like a bit of warning light. While I'm not sure I achieved the hot glow effect (a little more white in the middle perhaps - or yellow), it does look nice either way. Not that it makes sense for such a glow to be coming from the sides of the barrel. On the notes of barrels of meltaguns, flamers, and heat weapons: very thin layers (almost glazing) of any bronze or brass metallic separates them from grey metals while still leaning into the bronze/brass look I give fuel canisters for such weapons. Never underestimate glazing with metallics - it's surprisingly more useful that one might think.

I made a very small blue gemstone on the right arm to break the monotony of red everywhere. It's just a little visual interest. The surrounding ones I suppose I should do purple - but there still remains some others that I'll be painting up as red (again notably on the right arm).

Some of the cabling is Incubi Darkness with Black Templar over the top, using water on the brush to thin it ever so slightly and settle further off raised edges. Another way of giving subtle rubberised colour to "black" cables.

Some smaller details remain, the base needs a little more work (even if it's just a wash between stones), and then the varnish stage. How quickly I get it done depends on other matters, but I'm hoping it won't be too long before this dreadnought joins his brothers in the fight.

-- silly painter.

Boarding Actions Terrain - Part III (Showcase)

 

Peekaboo.

The first piece of boarding actions terrain is for all intents and purposes, finished. If I can get more done then there could be some harmonisation with the top areas, but for now it'll do.

This first piece was really just for testing, and I mostly definitely have put in more effort than I intend for the rest. Not that I went all-out or anything, it's still quite a simple paint job, but future pieces will refine what I've done further simply to get numbers done and not focus on any kind of small details. Maybe.

The skulls here are Morghast Bone with Skeleton Horde over the top. Absolutely nothing fancy at all. Just enough to pick them out, but no fancy shadows, and not paying attention to the surrounding lighting - they're basically too bright and I don't care.

The lights themselves I considered for a while, and while looking at references and other people's work ended up trying the following for the reds:

• White Star (Two Thin Coats) across all the light. Two or three coats to build it up to a solid white.
• Yriel Yellow applied over the top. This was the reason for the white: to make the yellow brighter and cover better.
• White Star again, glazed slightly into the brighter points.
• Blood Angels Red contrast across the whole light. It shouldn't be allowed to pool too heavily, but some definition in the corners is desired.
• Doom Metal (Two Thin Coats) across the bars to aid in definition and increase contrast to make the light seem even brighter.
• Thin glazes of Blood Angels Red, dragging towards the light, for very small OSL.

This might seem many steps, but it never felt that way and the impact to the terrain is really worth it. The resulting red is very punchy, with the varnish later only minimally reducing the effect. The OSL is very subtle: just enough to be noticeable, but not enough to overwhelm anything. More of a hint than anything else to say that the lights are light sources.

For the blue light I swapped out the Blood Angels Red above with Talassar Blue, but all other steps were identical.

Warning: Space Marine beyond, with a massive gun.

Cables were highlighted with Incubi Darkness, which is again not terribly prominent but is still worth the effort. Metallics were highlighted with Iron Warriors and Iron hands, but only quite subtly. Really just small highlights on the edges and brighter reflective points.

Thunderhawk Blue gave edge highlights more strength on the wall and rivets. I could go brighter to increase readability, but also it's worth bearing in mind that these are terrain pieces which are there to enhance the spectacle of the models, not dominate the view alone.

It doesn't really show much in the photos, but I did add a little rust in places. I didn't want to go overboard with it, as despite everything the Imperium makes ships and installations which given the chance will last: and so their materials can't be terribly susceptible to just rusting on their own. I also didn't want to spend longer adding rust and dirt effects than it took to paint everything else combined. Ultimately I went for:

• Mournfang Brown, quite heavily thinned, and feathered out into surrounding areas where possible. Mostly on metal gratings, around pipes that have leaks patched, or deep recesses that might get moisture gathering.
• Skrag Brown, again quite thinned, within the previous step but not covering all of it.
• Deathclaw Brown sparingly added in the more heavily rusted areas. Less is more.

Afterwards I ended up using Purity Seal on the whole thing, and that was it. I did not go back with metallics afterwards - there just didn't seem to be any need.

Now I just need to remember how I painted the base coats originally and I can see about setting up more pieces.

-- silly painter.

Boarding Actions Terrain - Part II

 

...and behind door number one...

It's been quite some time since I last worked on the boarding actions terrain, and honestly there's not a whole lot done quite yet. It's been staring at me for quite some time, but I've never been able to figure out the style I want to go for.

Since the last time I went over just about all of it with a black ink (tending towards brown) mixed with copies amounts of flow improver to turn it into a wash of sorts, and then used a damp brush to clean up some of the surfaces. The inks I'm using reactivate with water sometimes, so this method is almost like an oil wash in some regards. The general idea was to add some definition to places but to allow the base to be dirtied up a bit more in general. I should have done a drybrush to highlight before then, or even some simple edge highlights - might need to go back in and do that later. The ink can leave behind tide marks if too much water is used, so I leaned into that for scratches, dirt, and general wear & tear lines by using Nuln Oil later.

The cabling took a long time to figure out that a base coat of Corvus Black is enough for most of it. Mixing in either Stegadon Scale Green, or even better Incubi Darkness, gives them a little more colour for highlights without making them too similar to the base colour.

Recently I've been finding uses for the Two Thin Coats range, notably Doom Metal, and that's now my go-to for junction boxes, access terminals, and the like. I'll highlight with something later (likely Iron Warriors), reserving final highlights after I varnish everything.

Most of the brass looking areas are so far Castellax Bronze (a layer paint but with good enough coverage to be a base paint) followed by Runelord Brass (the old layer paint version). Retributor Armour for some of the buttons on the terminal just for visual interest, and all of the above for the lettering on the panels. I might yet put a shade around the lettering to increase contrast there and make them stand out more.

Still plenty to go - the skulls, the lighting, the terminal screen, and rust in a few places would be suitable. I'm tempted to try a couple of things with the airbrush for the terminal screen for a cheap OSL effect, which will need to wait until I have the painting space setup again for that. Same again for the lights above the door maybe (one will be red, the other green, imagining it would show door status, pressurisation, or some such information) however I don't know if I want the OSL on the door itself. That door opens, and it would look weird if it kept some of the OSL when that was the case. I'll need to think some more about that.

-- silly painter.