Project 20 Marines - Part III

Watch your back...pack.

 This is going to be another very short post, and as fair warning it might be a little random. There will also very likely be no post next week, but after that I hope to have a few things picking up again.

Anyway, that out of the way: backpacks are fully airbrushed. These included a pre-edge highlight step to see how the final highlight of Evil Sunz Scarlett would turn out over the top. In the photo the edges are visible, barely, but do not clearly stand out. I'm pretty much ok with this, and will definitely try to reapply a thin edge highlight again in select places. Is this worth it in the long run? Well....maybe. It's going to take a lot longer, but I think it's actually worth it for me. I like some edges being subtly defined, and this will help. So I'll stick with it and see how it goes.

Next step will be to add some recess shading, then the metallics (at least as far as the pre-varnish stage).

On the subject of varnish, the local weather has not been particularly conducive to correct drying of Purity Seal lately and I looked around for an alternative. I wanted something where frosting would be less of a problem, and the only real option is the airbrush. I also use the varnish to help seal decals and make them look part of the model, so ideally a matt varnish as well. To that end: Vallejo Premium Colour Matt Varnish. I've given it a quick test on a couple of models and it's held up fairly well so far, but the real test will be the twenty marines in progress right now. I'll also need to be really sure to clean out the airbrush as soon as I'm done with the varnish.

Don't forget decal softener when working with decals. A bit of softener and a cotton bud helps to keep the decal moulded to the surface, which makes the varnish step work much nicer.

As a final random note for this post: I've finally found a use for old paint bottles. Remove the lids, cap with plastic bottle lids (ones with a flat top), and then use a cross pattern of tape to keep the lids secured, and there are little holders for models while airbrushing them. I normally use blu-tac (or equivalent) to hold a model in place for this, but having that holder just means my fingers aren't in the way while using the airbrush. These are no match for a Citadel painting handle (the original variant) but also don't need the model glued to a base, no pinning is required, and are really only intended for the airbrushing step. All built from materials that would otherwise go into the bin.

I have other models in the background being painted as well, but they're not far enough along to do another post on just yet, which is partially why I'll take a week break before showing something a bit more interesting.

-- silly painter.